The 2" is, of course, intended for scopes that can accept 2" eyepieces. Either will work with a camera that has an APS-C size sensor like your T1i. They do make 2" nosepieces and 1.25" nosepieces (that's the diameter. in the same way you'd insert an eyepiece onto the telescope. You then mount the nosepiece & t-ring onto the camera and insert the whole thing into your telescope. except it has t-threads on the end so that you can thread it onto your t-ring. this is a barrel that inserts just like an eyepiece would. Many scopes wont have t-threads right on the end of the focuser, so you'd get a camera nosepiece. you may be able to thread the T-ring directly onto the t-thread and attach your camera. Some scopes have t-threads on the end of the focus (where you'd drop in the eyepiece) and if yours does. and the universal t-threads on the opposite side. it has the camera-specific mount on the camera facing side. LOTS of companies make these and it doesn't matter which brand you buy or which scope you have. so here's an Orion brand (which happens to be more expensive but I'll link it because you can get a closer look): and industry-standard "t-threads" on the scope-facing side.īut that's not a very good image of it. How you attach to a scope depends on the scope but you will definitely need a T-Ring (or "T-Adapter") for Canon EOS mount, and the rest depends on the scope.Ī "T-Ring" has the bayonet mount type on the camera-facing side. Right now you just have random photons landing everywhere. Once you get it mounted on the telescope, you'll be able to get it to come to focus and see something other than just a plain white image. it's just going to be a solid color and usually white. Without a lens on the camera you wont get an image. only Canon EOS "EF" lenses can be used with the Astronomik clip-in filter. The "catch" is that with the snap-in clip filter you cannot use any Canon EF-S lenses. This is a filter which clips into the body and restores the IR filter so that you can use it for regular terrestrial photography. if you are completely removing the IR filter, then you might want to look at the "OWC filter" by (OWC = Original White Balance). if you do happen to be on a Mac, Nebulosity (by Stark Labs) will control the camera for image acquisition.
#Astroimager getting focus mac
I use a Mac but I can run it in a virtual machine). You will also likely want either a remote wired shutter release (so you can use bulb mode) *or* you may want to use BackYard EOS to control the camera (BackYard EOS only runs on Windows. I have a 60Da which is designed specifically for astrophotography and Canon includes the AC adapter with the camera. that you need to record will kill the batteries rather quickly. This is because the somewhat long exposure times of astrophotography combined with the number of lights, darks, flats, etc. If you didn't alreaady purchase one, you may be interested in buying an AC adapter for the camera (it slides in like a battery. Once focused, remove the focus mask, return the camera back the exposure settings you want to use for your object, point the telescope back on that object (be careful not to touch focus), and begin collecting your images.ĭon't worry about the 9 auto-focus points you see when you look through the viewfinder. Adjust the focus on the telescope until the diffraction spikes converge (you may need to magnify live-view to 10x to make this easy).
#Astroimager getting focus iso
To focus, point a somewhat bright star, put the Bahtinov mask on the front of the scope, switch on "live view" mode and crank up the ISO and slow down the shutter speed (Canon cameras's "simulate" exposure on the live view screen so you'll get a brighter image by cranking up the exposure). they appeared to be annodized aluminum (or some light metal) about 1/8" thick.) :
I use the masks produced by Spike-A (they are metal masks. You can make your own by using this website to generate a template (you print it, then overlay that on a more durable material. as you focus in and out the vertical spike will move off center. If the vertical spike intersects with the middle of the X then your scope is perfectly focused. Point your telescope to a moderately bright star and it will cause the star to throw diffraction spikes in the shape of an X with a vertical line through the middle. This goes over the end of your telescope (like a scope cap) and has slots cut into it. You also will not see them when using Live View (which is how you'll use it when astro-imaging.)įor astrophotography, I would suggest either making or buying a "Bahtinov focusing mask". You will, of course, not see these in your images. this is up in the roof of the camera (above the reflex mirror). The points you see are etched on the focusing screen.
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